As the puppy gets older and bigger in size the more of a nuisance behaviour it becomes, especially if you have a dog that jumps up on visitors, small children, elderly people or when you have your work clothes on. You might have adopted an older dog from a rescue agency and the dog might have arrived in your home with the habit of jumping up.

Some dogs who display this behaviour quite intensely are usually relinquished to the back garden when visitors come, they are pushed down, yelled at to stop jumping, and none of these procedures will do anything to improve the dog’s behaviour; it can actually make it worse!

We have all heard to ignore the dog when he jumps, but using extinction alone will not solve the unwanted behaviour. What usually happens when someone tells you to ignore the behaviour, the dog might actually try harder to get your attention by jumping up more. In the past he has learnt this is what he must do to get your attention, and for some reason now it’s not working, so the dog tries harder.

Or the dog tries another behaviour to get your attention; other behaviours might consist of barking at you, mouthing your hands or feet or grabbing hold of the bottom of your pants. When the dog then do these behaviours we tell him to stop it, we push him away or yell at him; but he has managed to get your attention; thus he has succeeded in getting your interaction by doing another ‘annoying’ behaviour. Thus because the latest behaviour was successful, it will be employed in the future again (to obtain you interaction).

If the jumping up is purely an attention seeking behaviour or an over enthusiastic greeting ritual then yes ignoring the behaviour will work, BUT at the same time one has to teach another behaviour in it’s place. Don’t leave a ‘void’ for the dog to fill. Your best results will be obtained by teaching an alternative behaviour (sit) with rewards and play rather than focusing on suppressing the unwanted behaviour.

Teach your dog a good reliable ’sit-stay’ cue with both verbal and hand signals. Dogs are a visual specie and respond more reliably to a combination of visual and verbal cues than just using a verbal cue alone. Practice the ’sit-stay cue under various levels of arousal i.e. during play and when going on walks. And also practice this in the context that it happens i.e. the front door or the back garden. Ensure that you reward the sit behaviour with lots of treats, play and interaction.

Be pre-emptive; before the dog even has the chance to jump up to greet you, ask for a ’sit’. If he complies he can be calmly greeted, if not ignore the jumping up/withdraw your attention from him/turn away and then ask again for a ’sit;. This way they learn that jumping up does not work, but ’sit’ brings him positive interaction and attention.

If you have a small dog you can crouch down during greetings to the dog’s level to prevent him from jumping up. Guests will need to be informed of the new rules, as consistent feedback to the dog will make it easier for him to learn the new more rewarding greeting behaviour.

If you have a really excited dog that likes to jump on people then you can either keep him on a lead to prevent him from jumping (or inadvertently hurting guests) or keep him outside until he’s calmed down, and then allow him to greet the visitors while doing a calm ’sit’. Dogs respond better to commands the less aroused/excited they are,but it is not impossible to teach your dog to comply to commands when highly excitable; it just takes some extra time and patience.

For example, when a dog guards his food bowl he can start to eat at a faster pace as you approach, he can freeze and stop eating but still keeping his muzzle in the bowl, he can turn his hind quarters towards you while eating, as if to block your access to his bowl, if you approach him from the left, he can move his muzzle to left side of the bowl, also to block your access. Some dogs will even guard an empty food bowl!

MANAGEMENT

The first step in the treatment of resource guarding is to manage the situation. This means preventing the behaviour from happening. If the dog guards his chewy, then no chewies for now, if the dog guards a couch, make access to the couch inaccessible. If the dog guards the bed, close the bedroom door. These objects or locations will only be made available after extensive training has been done and once it used during the modification process.

WHEN ACCIDENTS HAPPEN

Access to guarded items should be prevented at all costs, but accidents do happen. Someone leaves the bedroom door open or Fido digs up a rawhide that he has buried some time ago. If that happens i.e. the dog gets on the bed, ignore him and do not get confrontational! Let him get down on his own or call him from the kitchen, shake the ‘dog-cookie-tin’, but do not push or pull him of the bed! If he is in possession of a the guarded ‘dug-up’ rawhide, let him finish it or if the situation is an emergency i.e. the dog has a dangerous object in his possession then you need to do an object-exchange. During the modification process it is a good idea to always have a ‘high-value-emergency item/treat’ handy for emergency exchanges. Even though this is bribery and totally ineffective for fostering behaviour change it is better than getting into a struggle with the dog.

KIDS

When children are in the household extra care should be taken to prevent situations from happening. Young children have difficulty complying with management rules; they will quite innocently walk up to the dog. Because they are small, they are more likely to be bitten in the face. When working with kids, it is best to get the dog desensitized to wearing a muzzle during actual training sessions with children. Only after the dog has been trained reliably with the adults in the house, only then can children take part in the actual training while being coached by a competent adult.

It is very important that the dog be gradually introduced to the muzzle before starting the actual training. The dog must happily allow you to put the muzzle on and be comfortable with it; otherwise it will cause the dog frustration, which will inhibit learning. You should use a basket muzzle, which will allow the dog to take treats from you during training. If the dog’s bite inhibition is poor, meaning he has already inflicted punctured bites then it is also advisable to let the dog wear a muzzle during the training sessions with adults.

A muzzle is not a cure for resource guarding; it is a training tool to keep you safe. A dog should not be left unsupervised with a muzzle on.

PREVENTION

At a young age the puppy must be made use to people taking things away, people approaching him and touching him while eating, he must be taught a ‘get-off’ command if he were to be allowed on couches and beds. This way you can prevent resource guarding from happening. If the puppy has a ‘forbidden’ object in his mouth, do not chase him and take it away, rather call him and exchange if for a tasty treat or another high valued toy.

We often feed the puppy and then walk away. Start off by making the puppy ‘earn’ his food from you by asking him for a behaviour e.g. sit, lie down or give paw. Then linger a bit while he eats, add in some tasty bits, stroke the puppy while he is eating. You can also hold onto the food bowl for a while as he eats. Take it away and ask for a behaviour and then put the bowl down again. This way he learns at an early age the when humans are around his bowl it means good stuff are going to fall into the bowl; this way he would want you near his bowl. If the bowl is taken away it does not mean all is lost, he will learn that he will get it back again.

Hold onto chewy toys while they chew it, most puppies will like this added comfort instead of struggling to keep the chewy still. Take it away, ask for a behavior and then give it back. You can also do exchanges with other chew toys. This way he will learn not to feel the need to use aggression to hold onto the toy, but that pleasant things happen when you take stuff away from him.

If there are children in the house then they also need to do these exercises with the puppy under the strict supervision of an adult and also only after the adults have done these exercises with the puppy and know that there are no guarding issues.

THE PROCESS

Systematic desensitization (SD) is a process where the dog is exposed to the trigger at a level that does not trigger a negative response. The trigger is then gradually increased if the dog shows signs of being comfortable at that level. SD is most often performed in conjunction with counter conditioning.
Counter conditioning (CC) is about changing associations. Classical conditioning is forming an association of one stimuli with another – think of Pavlov’s dogs; the bell started to predict food. CC is an application of classical (Pavlovian) conditioning. With CC we want to change the dog’s negative association/response to you taking an object away. Instead of eliciting a defensive/aggressive response we want to teach him it is a good thing if you take something away from him or when you approach him while he is eating or if he is on a favourite resting place. By using CC you change a negative emotional response to a pleasant Conditioned Emotional Response (CER)

To achieve a positive CER you will combine SD and CC. In short the process will look like this. You will present a trigger/object/action at a low-enough intensity (as not elicit a negative response) followed by a pleasant stimulus (e.g. treat). This process is repeated until the dog shows (by means of body language) that he is eagerly anticipating the pleasant stimulus. Then the trigger is slightly increased followed by the pleasant stimulus. And so the process is repeated until your have reached the ‘desired’ response in a certain context, be it him wagging his tail in a relaxed manner at you when you approach his food bowl, or willingly relinquishing a toy or object when asked for it.

The dog’s body language will tell you what emotions are going on inside the dog. If he still stiffens up or holds onto the toy and then relinquishes half heartedly you have either gone too fast too quickly with your training and you would need to go back a few steps and start again. It is very important the dog happily relinquishes an item or location. The absence of aggression is not sign that the behaviour as been modified. It is only modified once the dog is showing friendly body language and behaviour in the specific context.

When you have reached success it is important to do spot checks the rest of the dogs life, start off with a few spot checks a week and then taper off to at least once a week to maintain the CER you have worked so hard at obtaining.

SOME PRACTICAL EXAMPLES

Here are two broadly outlined exercises. Please take note that they are not comprehensive exercises as each dog’s responses and thresholds are different. They are merrily to give you a broad outline of how to go about if you have a dog with low-level-guarding issues. If your dog has ever bitten when guarding an item or location and if there are children in the household, then it is best to get in a trainer/behaviourist who can work out a step by step desensitization and counter conditioning program specifically suited for your dog.

The Food Bowl

* First determine at what point your dog starts to guard his food bowl. If he already start to show signs of stiffening when you approach then this will be your starting point.

* Let’s say he starts stiffening and giving low growls when you are 2 meters away, you will then start your training at 3m!

* Do this exercise in a different location to where he normally eats.

* Use another bowl, other than the ‘guarded’ bowl.

* Approach the dog and his empty bowl at 3m and toss treats in the bowl, walk away. Repeat as much as is necessary to elicit a happy response from the dog.

* Approach from different angles at 3m, toss treats, repeat as much as needed.

* Approach the dog and empty bowl and at 2 m toss treats and walk away. Repeat AMAN (As Much As Needed to elicit a happy response)

* Approach from different angles and toss treats. Repeat AMAN.

* Approach, at 1m toss treat in bowl, walk away, Repeat AMAN.

* Approach, lean over as to touch bowl, with other hand drop treat and walk away. Repeat AMAN

* Approach, touch bowl, drop treats, walk away. Repeat AMAN

* Approach, touch bowl for longer period, with other hand drop treats, walk away. Repeat AMAN

* Approach, pick up bowl, add treats, put bowl down, walk away. Repeat AMAN

* Approach, pick up bowl for 5 sec, add treats, put bowl down. Repeat AMAN

* Approach, touch the dogandrsquo;s shoulder, add in lots of treats, walk away. Repeat AMAN

* Approach, touch dog for longer, add in treats, walk away. Repeat AMAN

* Now start to add dry kibble into the bowl

* Approach again at 3 meters and start from the top again. Repeat AMAN.

* Then start to add some canned food to his kibble and start from 3m again!

* When adding canned food, your value of your treats must also increase!

* Have different adults in the house do this with the dog.

* Only once the dog has been proofed by a few adults then children can be introduced. They too will start at 3 meters and work through the whole program, under the supervision of an adult.

* If the dog’s body language at any stage becomes stiff, gives a growl or shows any other signs of not being comfortable with the step you are doing, back away, give the dog a rest and start again, but this time start a few steps back again. If any threatening behaviour is displayed by the dog, it means you have gone too fast too quickly. Taking short cuts now will end in someone getting bitten later on!

* Some dogs will progress quite quickly with certain steps and then have difficulty with other steps. This is normal, take it slow and be patient. It might take one dog a few days to overcome his negative emotional response while others might take weeks. Take the exercises at the dog’s pace and you will eventually have success.

* After the dog has proofed reliable then do some spot checks with the dog each week to maintain his now positive conditioned emotional response to you and anybody else approaching his food bowl.

The Couch

For this exercise, let’s assume the dog only guards a specific couch. Some dogs will guard the couch (or a toy/item) if the just got possession of the location (or item) and some dogs will only start to show guarding behaviour after they have been in possession of the location (or item) for a while.

You will start your training with ‘cold’ areas i.e. other chairs, couches, or a blanket or large cushion on the floor.
First get a positive CER BEFORE you start with the couch he guards!!
Your first step will be to get him comfortable with you approaching him while on the couch and the second part of the training will be to get him getting off happily if you say ‘get off’.

Step 1 – Approaching while on the couch

* You would follow the same steps as above with the foodbowl and getting him loving it when you approach him while he is on the blanket/couch (the ‘cold’ couch, the one he does not guard).

* Determine at what distance you are to him when he start showing guarding behaviour, then add on 1 meter and start as laid out in above exercise with the foodbowl. Do as many repetitions as need to elicit a positive CER.

* Ensure that you approach him from different directions and repeat AMAN.

* Once he is happily waiting your approach then you will start to touch the dog and treat as in above exercises. (IF your dog has body-handling issues then that needs to be addressed separately!)

Step 2 – Teaching the ‘off’ cue

* When he is on the couch/blanket/cushion, lure him off by using treats.

* When he gets off say andldquo;offandrdquo; and give him the treats and lots of praise.

* Lure him back on again by tapping on the couch/blanket/cushion and then only verbally praise.

* Lure him off again with the treat and say andlsquo;offandrsquo; as he gets off and treat him. Repeat AMAN.

* Then start to lure him off, without using food and just using the hand gesture, as if you have food. When he gets off, treat and praise him. Repeat AMAN.

* Before proceeding with the next step be SURE that he understands what ‘off’ means!

Introducing the ‘hot’ location

* Invite the dog onto the hot location.

* Go back to step 1 where you would gradually approach him and toss some treats, until you can go right up to him and touch him, WHILE he displays friendly body language.

* Once he is happy to have you approach him, then start asking for the behaviour andlsquo;offandrsquo;. And reward a lot when he does get off happily.

* If at any stage you observe any tenseness in the dog andndash; it means you have gone too fast too quickly. Go back a few steps and start again.

Generalization!!

* All the adults in the house needs to go through all the steps and then the children, if any, should do the steps under adult supervision.

* If you still need to struggle with the dog to get him off the couch or if he still stiffens if you approach, but don’t growl or snap,is not an indication of a positive CER, remember the dog must WANT you near him and display friendly body language, then only do you have a positive CER!

* Spot checks need to be done at least once or twice a week to maintain the positive CER that you have conditioned.

* If you have friends or family that can help you generalize his CER, then ask for their assistance. The more people that can do these exercises with the dog, the better he will generalize his conditioned positive CER.

* During the training, ensure that he does not have access to the couch he guards. Make the couch inaccessible to the dog by placing the sitting cushion at an angle or placing items on the couch!

* If an accident happens and the dog has gain access, do not get into a struggle with the dog, lure him of distract him by calling him from the kitchen with the promise of a ‘cookie’.

* If you at any stage feel uncomfortable doing the exercises with your dog or feel you are not progressing please contact a trainer/behaviourist that can work with you to develop a systematic desensitization and counter conditioning program specially for YOUR dog.

Copyright Claire Grobbelaar

It could also include modalities such as laser ultrasound, pulsed magnetic field therapy or electrical muscle stimulation.
Hydrotherapy is also an extremely useful form of therapy, particularly when strengthening is required.

The use of physical therapy after injury or surgery assists the body to heal itself, mostly through promoting blood circulation and improving cellular function. With correct mobilization and passive joint movement, adhesions and contractures can be reduced, resulting in a better outcome for the animal in terms of functional ability. A guided active exercise programme assists the strengthening of the body following the necessary rest or restricted exercise.

It is important to use the appropriate treatment at the appropriate time. The initial stages of treatment are focused on reducing pain and swelling and maintaining function where possible. Time is required for the healing to take place. Each tissue type has different healing times and this will vary depending on the severity of the injury or the nature of the surgery. Active strengthening exercises should only begin once the injured tissue is strong enough. Hydrotherapy can often begin earlier than land-based exercise as the buoyancy and hydrostatic pressure of the water offers support to the body. Wounds must be nicely healed and stitches out before hydrotherapy can begin.

Your animal therapist needs to be someone who:

* Works closely with you and your vet and is aware of your animal’s medical history.
* Assesses the whole animal and not just the injured body part/s.
* Takes your animal’s, home environment, character and your personal circumstances into consideration when planning a rehabilitation protocol for your animal.
* Is aware of his/her own limitations and is prepared to refer to other practitioners when appropriate.
* Is willing to spend time teaching you skills to manage your animal’s condition, particularly if it is chronic e.g. arthritis.
* Explains what they are doing and why.
* Has appropriate qualifications.

Therapy for prevention is particularly relevant for animals who participate in sport e.g. dogs who do agility or field trials and horses who compete in showjumping, dressage, racing or eventing as well as animals who have been diagnosed with or are prone to any musculo-skeletal problems. By maintaining healthy muscle and joint function the risk of injury is reduced. If your animal is checked over regularly, small problems can he picked up early and treated before they become big problems.

Pain is not well recognised in animals and the vicious cycle of pain-reduced function-muscle atrophy-compromised joint function-pain can be picked up by an animal therapist and treated Physical therapy is suitable for all animals. The success of the therapy is dependant on the compliance of the animal and the input of, and communication between, all members of the team: the vet, the owner, the therapist/s and in the case of horses, the team may also include the farrier, the trainer, the saddler and the dentist. For the sake of the animal, find yourself a good team.

Dawn Jones can be contacted through her website www.animalphysicaltherapy.co.za or 021-761-9448.

This article was first printed in ‘The South-African Pet-Friendly Directory’, 4th edition 2006/7, p199.

Reprinted with permission from the author and editor of above mentioned publication.

If your resident dog/s has not been positively socialised with other dogs or if you are bringing in an young or adult dog into your home you might consider a trainer or behaviourist to assist you in the initial introduction.

The introduction

The best place to introduce the dogs to each other is a location where your resident dog is accustomed to meet other dogs and has a history of playful interaction with strange dogs. Each dog should have a handler with lots of tasty treats. The owner/s should be relaxed and upbeat as owner anxiety could cause the resident dog to associate the changes in the owner’s behaviour to the presence of the other/new dog. The possibility exist also that the both dogs may cross-attribute the owner’s anxiety to each other and cause the dogs to become tense and apprehensive and interpret the situation as unsafe therefore creating mutual vigilance, agitation and intolerance.

Being confident and jolly can help both dogs to relax and become less ambivalent towards each other.

If you have more than one resident dog then it is best to do introductions one at a time to the new dog. It might take longer, but it is the safest and most successful way to ensure a happy relationship between them.

Avoid face-to-face or stationary introductions as it could be too confrontational to one or both dogs. Start your introduction by taking them for a walk by walking parallel with each other. While the dogs are walking it gives them the opportunity to also sniff and investigate their environment and takes the intense initial attention off each other, while at the same time they are both having a positive experience while in the presence of the other dog.

Handlers can at this stage give them treats and speak to them in a jolly upbeat manner. Treats can also be given if the dog shows any pro-social interest in the other dog. This way the dog starts to associate the other with something positive.

As the dogs start to relax they can be brought closer to each other whilst still walking. Leashes should be kept loose, sometimes this is difficult, but try to have a loose lead as much as possible. Pulling on the lead could cause tension and lead to reactivity. You can also take turns to play with one dog or throw a toy while the other dog watches. This can reduce tension and prime the dog with arousal that is more conducive with positive social interaction.

If at any stage one dog (or both) become reactive or show any threatening behaviours the offending dog/s are gently but firmly pulled away and the walk is continued as if nothing has happened.

Do not wait for tension or an altercation to escalate before separating them. The quicker tension is diffused the better. Do not verbally or physically punish the dog/s as negative associations could be made with the other dog and it adds tension to the situation. The goal of the initial introduction is to increase familiarity with each other to set the stage to allow sufficient social attraction between the dogs to generate play.

When they become more relaxed with each other presence then you can allow them to have interaction by allowing them to sniff and investigate each other. At this stage long leashes/lines can be used so ensure they have freedom to move around each other and display appropriate body language towards each other. Short leashes might inhibit the dog to display complete body language.

Long leashes also give the dog/s a flight option, should they feel overwhelmed. At the same time it still allows you to separate them should you need to. It might be tricky, but try and keep the leashes untangled, should you need to separate them.

If you know some Tellington ttouch bodywork you could also do some touches on them before and between interactions, to help them calm down and relax. A body wrap might also help them to relax and increase confidence. (See other articles on the website about ttouch, the benefits of massage and the body wrap.)

Keep the initial interaction short. Depending on the dogs, the initial interaction could be a few seconds. Call them away from each other and walk again and treat and play. Then allow them to interact again for a longer period and separate them again. This prevents arousal levels from becoming too high too quickly. With time you can allow them longer and longer interactions. You can do this until you feel comfortable that the dogs are getting along. By this time one or both of them might initiate play. Allow short burst of play at a time, also to prevent the dogs from becoming too aroused around each other.

Bring the dogs back home.

Once the introduction has been successful you can take the dogs home. All dog beds and toys should be picked up before the dogs are brought home.

You can even bring them in the house on their leashes and walk around the property with them while they interact with each other. This allows the new dog to explore the new home environment. When you see they are relaxed then you take the leashes off. (If you are unsure then just attach a dragline on the dog/s) A drag line is a leash with the loop cut off, so that it cannot hook on to something. A dragline is used so that if a fight happens that you can safely pull them apart without possibly getting bitten in the process.)

Gradually bedding and toys can be placed down one at a time to see how the two dogs behave. A dog that has been an only dog for a while might be possessive of his/her toys. If the new dog is a young, adult, or shelter dog you must first assess how s/he will behave with toys with your dog present.

Interactions at home

You may observe ‘disciplining’ and limit setting behaviour from the adult dog towards the new puppy that might seem severe, but it is very rare for an adult dog to injure a puppy. Canine behaviour towards puppies are governed by a social ‘code’ that forbids injurious bites or life-threatening attacks. How ever it can happen and such dog should not share a household with a puppy.

Various factors will determine the interaction with the dogs at home, such as age, developmental stage and health of the dogs i.e. younger dogs are much more tolerant and even playful towards puppies than older or ill dogs. Highly active and hyper puppies can be source of distress to a much older dog. A confident sociable dog will rapidly establish appropriate limits and boundaries for the puppy, which the owner should not interfere with.

If a puppy continuously ignores these limit setting behaviours from the older dog, especially if the older dog is ill or has mobility problems such as arthritis, the puppy should be removed to prevent the older dog from becoming increasingly irritable with the puppy.

On the other hand a nervous or insecure dog may try to avoid a bouncy and socially intrusive puppy. If such interactions are allowed to persist continuously, irritability and intolerance to social contact towards the puppy can occur, setting the stage for tension between the two dogs.

It is best to foster and facilitate interaction rather than to dictate a relationship of how you think it should be between the two.

Generally giving the resident dog the support and the benefit of the doubt in its efforts to ‘dissipline’ the new puppy’s behaviour is beneficial to their social relationship. If the side of the puppy or new dog is taken you run the risk of establishing a highly undesirable alliance and misperception that can exert long-term destabilizing effects on the dog’sandnbsp; relationship with each other.

To increase the social attraction between the two, the resident dog should be provided with appetitive and social rewards given in the presence of the new dog or puppy. The resident dog should continue to receive exclusive alone-time with the owner to reduce the risk of competitive behaviour over the owner’s attention and affections.

If there are any issues or intolerances between the dogs they should be separated when you are not at home, with the resident dog having the preferred area/location. When you are home interaction should be supervised until such a time that you feel comfortable with leaving them together when you are not present.

All pro-social interactions from either dog should be rewarded by using praise or treats (if there are no food guarding issues between the two dogs.)

Most dogs gradually learn to accept and enjoy the new addition to the household. Allow time for adaptation (for both dogs) as some behaviours such as house soiling or inappropriate chewing may occur (by either dog) due to the adaptation ’stress’ of living and sharing an environment with another dog, especially if the new addition is a shelter dog. Allow leeway for minor changes such as temporary bedding and feeding locations until things have settled down.

Copyright Claire Grobbelaar

* Only take the puppy home at the age of 8 weeks. For reasons visit www.dogsense.co.za/newslist.php and see article ‘Pitfalls of adopting out too soon’.

* Avoid puppies that have been raised in an outdoor kennel or in the back yard only. Puppies that have been raised in the owner’s house, with all the household social happenings, since birth are much more adaptable and sociable as adults.

* Be sure to view the mother and father of the litter, if possible.

* Do not be tempted or talked into taking two puppies at the same time. You could be setting yourself up for a series of potential behaviour problems; however dogs are social animals and need companionship. Best is to obtain a puppy, have him settle in with the rules and structures you provided, train him to be a well adjusted and well mannered pet, and then get your second dog. Chances are good that the second pup will learn from the older dog.

* Try and stay in contact with the breeder and owners of the other litter mates.

* The puppy should be taken to your vet as soon as possible for a check up, de-worming and vaccinations, if due.

* Choose your puppy’s name with consideration. See www.favorite-puppy-names.com

* Who will hold the puppy when you drive home? This is an excellent bonding experience for owner and new dog. Take with the new blanket that the puppy will be sleeping on in his new bed.
* Have you decided where the puppy will sleep the first few weeks? It is best if he can sleep close to you in an en-suit bathroom, closed off with a baby gate or board, or a big open box/puppy pen/crate in your bedroom. Remember he has just left behind all things familiar and safe. He needs your presence to feel safe and secure.

* Have you decided what the puppy will be eating? It is usually best to keep the puppy on the same food that the breeder provided for a period of 5-7 days while at the same time mixing in more and more of the new diet.

* Has the puppy got all the necessary bedding, blankets, bowls, chewy-toys, alone-time-toys, treats, collar/harness, lead and designated alone time area?

* What is the real reason for obtaining a puppy? A companion, a walking-buddy, you love being around dogs and every thing dog, a social status object (i.e. rare breeds), aesthetic value of the breed, a guard dog only, a playmate for children, to teach your child responsibility ? The last five are not good reasons to get a dog, it’s not fair on the dog. Be very sure and honest as to why you want to get a puppy.

* Does everybody in the household want a new dog?

* Do you know all about the breed you are interested in? Have you done some research about the specific breed from different sources? Are you aware of that breed’s possible breed-specific-problems?

* Will the size of your property be appropriate for the breed and size of the dog?

* Do you already have other dogs or cats, or horses, ducks or bunnies on your property? If you do, consider the type of dog that will fit in.

* What is your lifestyle like? Active and sporty, do you go out a lot or do you prefer to laze around the house, do you work long hours away from home? Will this specific breed fit in with your lifestyle and routine?

* Have you thought about how your puppy will spend his time while you are at work? Consider puppy-day-care or a mid-day dog-walker (for fully vaccinated pups), chew toys, food dispensing toys, an elimination area.

* Find out about positive-methods-puppy class availability in your area. Enroll as soon as you know when you are getting your new puppy as some instructors only take a limited number of puppies per class. These classes are critical for your dog to develop into a well adjusted and well mannered family dog. Did you know that by the time your puppy is 16 weeks old he needs to meet at least 100 different people and 100 different dogs to ensure him becoming a well socialised adult dog?

* Are you willing to take the puppy to obedience classes after his puppy course? Will you have the time?

* Does everybody agree about the house-rules for the puppy?

* Does everybody understand and accept their part in the puppy’s education?

* Are you aware that all puppies will dig, chew, whine, bark, mouth, bite, or eliminate in the house at some point? Are you prepared for some destruction? Have you ‘puppy-proofed’ your house?

* Have you considered the full financial implications of owning a dog – puppy classes, obedience classes, good quality food, grooming, if necessary, vaccinations, regular de-worming and tick and flea prevention, bedding, toys, chew toys, sterilization and unexpected medical expenses etc.

* If any unwanted behaviour arises, will you put the effort, time and money into modifying it?

Copyright Claire Grobbelaar

1) No signs of friendliness at all. The dog ignores you, almost as if you are not there. Similar to an ostrich putting his head in the sand. ‘If I do not see you I don’t have to deal with you’. This shows signs of feeling uncomfortable in a situation and the dog is trying to avoid it.

2) Even if the dog tolerates being touched does not mean the dog is friendly. Emphasis here is on ‘tolerate’. (See no.10)

3) They can even initiate contact, but then not allow you to touch them. The moment you touch them or reach out to them they back away. Respect this, the dog is telling you he does not like it. (See no.10)

4) Dilated pupils!! When checking this out, be sure not to stare at the dog this could be perceive as a threat by the dog.

5) The white of the eyes show. This happens because the dog is giving you a ‘calming signal’ which is turning his head away from you/the ‘perceived threat’ but at the same time the dog does not want to take his eyes of the ’scary’ thing.

6 ) Short or prolonged ‘freezes’ in body language/movements.

7 ) Nudging at your body with their muzzle. Sort of like ‘testing the water with your toe’.

8 ) They can have a furrowed brow.

9) Stiff tail or swaying slowly stiffly. Please remember that a wagging tail is not always a sign of friendliness, it’s merrily a sign of arousal – ever seen dogs barking ferociously at a gate and wagging their tails at the same time? Read the dog’s body language as a whole.

10) Is the dog displaying body language of being cautious or anxious? I.e. moving backwards or leaning forward with front quarters but with bracing their hind legs, turning the head away for short or long periods, licking his nose, lowering of the head, ears pressed against head or backwards, is the tail held low or tucked, rounded hind quarters and/or rounded top line, yawning, scratching himself, suddenly starting to sniff the ground, ‘hiding’ behind owner, trying to move away, lifting the one front paw, and/or avoiding eye contact, raised hair on the back of the dog is also a sign of arousal. If contact is pursued the dog can growling or lift the lips to show the canine teeth as a last warning.

11) Age of dog and intact status (elbows are a good sign of age). According to Sue’s experience dogs older than 12 months are more likely to bite if they perceive a threat and can cause more damage when they do bite. This does not mean that you can now safely approach a younger dog. Please remember to read the dog’s body language as a whole.

Other signs

1) Normally, in a tense situation a dog’s mouth will close just before he bites. It’s almost as if he is ‘holding his breath’/tension.

2) Even if dogs are generally very affiliative towards you and approach you with ease – it’s about their feelings towards people,andnbsp;it’s not about you, per se. Do not assume that because you are a ‘dog-lover’ that all dogs are ‘people-lovers’.

3) Bites happen really quickly; so much so that bites/attacks appear to happen in the ‘past tense’ – if you do not know what to look for.

As her arthritis (which is under treatment) progressed, I had to have a second person assist me, eventually it became such a struggle, that we ended up at the vet, having to muzzle her. In the end it became so traumatic for her that we needed to sedate her. I have tried lots of methods, but nothing seemed to decrease her anxiety about having her nails cut. She has the nail-growth most woman dream of; very quick and strong, and walking on tar each day, did not seem to wear them down at all, even though she is a large German shepherd.

She needs her nails cut about every two to three months. This I decided could not go on and I went searching for something else. I came across an article ‘The doggy nail file’, written by Shirley Chong (www.ShirleyCong.com). The doggy nail file technique is where the dog files her own nails!!! (See photo) For dogs and owners that are already clicker-savvy, this technique is really quick, easy and most of all, FUN FOR THE DOG! Let me explain.

First, make your own nail filing board. The size of the board will depend on your dog’s conformation. Larger dogs will need larger boards, i.e. 30 cm wide and 60 cm long. Cover the board by gluing fine sandpaper to it. As the dog starts to file her nails, then switch to a coarser sandpaper. I was in such a hurry to try this method that I just used a normal sturdy clip board with the sandpaper clipped on (see photo).

If your dog can already ‘give paw’, you are one step ahead. If your dog cannot give paw then we need to shape a paw tap first, (see below)

Have some very tasty treats and your clicker handy. Your dog can sit or stand in front of you. Hold the board at an approximately 45degree angle between your knees and at a height your dog will be able to reach comfortably. Ask your dog to give paw and hold your hand over the board. As she gives paw, click and treat. Do this a few times. Then ask her to ‘give paw’ and take your hand away, just as she gives paw. She will then touch the board with her foot, click and treat. Do this a few times and then wait for her to offer you the behaviour. Dogs that have been clicker trained will automatically start trying to figure out how to get the treats you have. They will start to offer you the last behaviour they did that got them the treat. When she paws the board out of her own, click and treat.

Within a few trials you will see that the dog arches her toes and hold her foot in a cup position so that only her nails make contact with the board, which will protect her pads.

Once she has figured out it is touching the board that makes the click happen then start to withhold the click when she touches, this will almost certainly lead to the dog making a raking motion with her foot on the board, then click and give her jackpot (lots of treats). Once they figure out it is the raking motion that gets them the treat, they enthusiastically start to rake on the board.

Most dogs will alternate their paws. Because my dog only gives paw with her left foot, I had to teach her to also use her other foot. To achieve this I used a learning theory called ‘extinction’. This means that if some behaviour in the past leaded to reinforcement and now does not seem to get the same favourable consequence, the dog will try harder at the behaviour. I just stopped clicking for her left-foot-pawing. Within a few trials, she switched paws and voila, a jackpot of treats came her way.

After obtaining fluency with both paws, I just added in a different cue for each foot-raking, i.e. ‘paw’ for her left foot and ‘foot’ for her right foot.

In the beginning, dogs that have long nails will file their nails at funny angles and unevenly, but with time it will even out. It also depends on the angle and height that you hold the nail-board. Some dogs will find it easier if it flat on the ground (kept in place by you putting your foot on a corner of the board) or at a slight angle. When not using the board, put it away to prevent the dog from ‘quicking’ their nails.

If your dog cannot give paw then you can ’shape’ the pawing motion or you can teach her to ‘give paw’ first. Shaping is the rewarding (clicking and treating ) of approximations of behaviours towards a target behaviour (paw rake).

Place the board on the floor between you and your dog, if she sniff or looks at it click and treat her. Do a few trials. She will learn that something about the board is making you click, which means treats for her. After a few trials, stop clicking if she looks or sniffs at it. She will now try something else to make you click, if she does not touch it with her feet, move a little backwards, this will entice her to move towards you and thus step on it, as the board is between you and her. When you treat her, treat her away from the board. Move around the board, so that is constantly between you and her. She will have to step on it to get closer to you, click and treat. Do a few trials until you see she starts stepping on it on her own. Then you can withhold the click to get a raking motion as described above or you can start to hold it at a slight angle so that she can still touch it easily.

It such a pleasure to see her now, when I take out the nail-board. She jumps around and can’t wait for me to place the board down for her so that she can start to earn some tasty treats!! If anyone would like some help with this method, then please contact me so that we can make trimming your dog’s nails a pleasant experience!!

Copyright Claire Grobbelaar

Dr. Ian Dunbar, respected animal behaviorist and DVM, (UK) had this to say about dogs at a recent dog trainer’s conference: ‘When they’re upset, pissed off, or annoyed, they don’t call their lawyer… they bite. That’s just what they do.’

THE TWO MOST IMPORTANT THINGS TO TEACH KIDS

1) Dogs do not like hugs and kisses. Do not think your dog is an exception to this. A lot of dogs tolerate this human behaviour as they have been exposed to it as puppies; they do not particularly like it. (If in doubt – have someone stand behind you while you hug your dog, so that they can see his facial expression – chances are there is a lot of lip licking, eye blinking, whites of the eyes showing, turning head away, ever so slightly stiffening of the whole body or just neck and shoulders and closing of the mouth happening – all signs of discomfort) Hugging dogs, even family dogs are one of the common causes of bites to the face. Hugging and kissing is a behaviour used by primates (humans, chimps etc) to convey feelings of affection or reassurance; canines don’t hug! They can feel threatened when hugged or perceive this ‘close-face-to-face interaction’ as a constraint and because they cannot ‘flee’ the situations the other survival mechanism is to ‘fight’/bite. Teach your child to scratch the dog on the chest and shoulders or rub behind the ears from the side (do not reach over the dog’s head).

2) If a strange dog approaches your child, teach them to ‘BE A TREE’. Trees are boring and the dog will eventually go away. ‘Be a tree’ means a) stand still, b) fold your branches (arms) together and c) look at your roots (feet). Children can even use this technique if their own dog gets to boisterous during play. Dogs are stimulated by movement and sounds. The erratic movements and high pitch sounds that children make can cause some dogs to view them as prey and a chasing or wrestling game can become seriously dangerous.

THE FOUR MOST IMPORTANT THINGS OWNERS CAN DO TO PREVENT DOG BITES.

1) Condition your dog to the world. From the moment you receive your new puppy, start socializing your puppy to every possible human/event/situation/thing in a positive way. This includes children, toddlers, babies, gangly teenagers, old people and people of different genders. Dr. Ian Dunbar, who pioneered the idea of puppy socialisation classes recommend that your puppy should meet a MINIMUM of 100 DIFFERENT people and a 100 DIFFERENT dogs before the age of four months. And even after the age of four months socializing should carry on until the dog is at least two years of age!

2) Train your dog. Take your dog to training courses that uses positive methods. Allow the children to take part in the training, or at least part of the training exercises as this will teach them how to appropriately interact with dogs and it will also teach the dog to comply and respect the children. To make it fun for the kids, create a weekly wall chart that shows who has taught the dog what behaviours during the week. This way you are sure that each child in the house gets to teach the dog the same things. It can include teaching the dogs behaviours such as sit, down, give paw, lie down, roll-over, exchanging objects, handling ears, tail, mouth, paws, legs and hand feeding. If the child is too young to teach the dog a new behaviour, you can teach the behaviour first and then let the child lure the dog into the behaviour, followed by giving the dog a reward. All training should be supervised by an adult. Do not allow children to punish the dog; this can have serious consequences.

3) Neuter/spay your dog. Have your dog neutered/spayed at plus/minus 6 months of age. Altered pets are calmer, healthier and less likely to be aggressive than unaltered dogs.

4) Supervise your dog while interacting with children. Supervise all interaction between dogs and children; being on the phone or in another room is not supervision. Especially don’t leave children alone with multiple dogs. Even if your dog is great with children and has never growled or bitten ‘why take the chance?’ There is no such thing as a dog that is 100% reliable with children. Dogs endure so much (albeit unintentional) manhandling from children and even the gentlest family dog will bite if he has just ‘endured enough’.

Accidents happen quickly and a moments carelessness on your part could be the moment that little Junior decides to hold onto Brutus’s tail/ear or accidentally trips over him which startles the dog into a biting reaction.

Children get excited around dogs and forget the do’s and don’ts. A provoked bite is still classified as a bite, despite it being the ‘child’s fault’. It makes no difference to Junior as to why Brutus bit him; it still hurts physically and very often emotionally.

OTHER IMPORTANT THINGS THAT OWNERS CAN DO TO PREVENT DOG BITES /ACCIDENTS.

A. Teach children how to approach a strange dog that is on lead with an owner. (See below)B. Consider these things before allowing your child to interact with a strange dog (See below)

C. Teach children what to do if a strange dog approaches them. (See below)

D. Learn to recognize the signals a dog gives to indicate that he feels uncomfortable/threatened by a child. (See below)

E. Never punish a dog if they growl or lift their lip for a child. Growling is communication. It is telling you about the dog’s internal state. ‘I’m not comfortable with this’. Be thankful that the dog is giving you warning/indication of not feeling secure in that particular situation. This gives you the opportunity to get professional help to come and assist you to positively condition your dog to the situation. If you punish the growling, then next time the dog feels uncomfortable he will not growl, he will just bite, as biting is the next step in the aggression sequence.

F. Never tie your dog to a pole or fence! Especially if there are children in the area. A tied up dog is a frustrated dog. It’s an accident waiting to happen. Children can miss-judge the distance and get too close. Dogs that are release from a tie-down are usually so aroused; and aroused dogs trigger easier.

G. When out in public with your dog, keep him on a leash and do not allow children (and adults) to greet/and ‘invade’ his space if he is not giving you clear signals of being comfortable in the situation. If your dog does not want to ’say hi’ – respect that and be firm with strangers about not allowing any further interaction. How would you liked to be kissed/hugged ‘hello’ by a stranger, especially if you are not having a good day?

H. Do not wrestle or play ruff-and-tumble games with your dog. These games are fun for an adult and puppy but it quickly loses its charm when the dog reaches adulthood and has learnt that rough play is acceptable. Teach kids to play safe games such as fetch that do not involve rough play.

I. Teach children not to tease and frustrate dogs, especially dogs behind fences. Teach them to have respect for animals.

J. Teach your puppy good bite-inhibition. This is something that the puppy needs to learn before the age of 5 months. This ensures that when his teeth touches human flesh he does not put any pressure behind his teeth.

K. If your child has friends who have dogs, make sure the dog is socialized with children and that there will be supervision.

L. Teach your child to never take away a dog’s toy and not to approach him on his bed, reach out to dogs that are tied down, in cars or through fences.

M. Teach children not to bother dogs when they are eating or sleeping, are injured or have puppies.

N. Tell them not to enter a yard where there is a dog without his owner, even if they know the dog. Even their own yard – don’t jump over the wall and thereby surprising their dog.

A. How to approach a strange dog

• If the dog has the owner with him, first ask if it would be okay to interact with the dog.
• If the owner says it is okay; wait for the dog to approach you.
• If there is no owner with the dog – do not approach the dog.
• NEVER approach and touch a dog that doesn’t approach and touch you FIRST.
• The best approach when introducing yourself to a new dog is a sideways one. A sideways stance is less threatening to a dog.
• Avoid direct eye contact.
• Look away, or look at the floor and pretend to be disinterested in the dog.This conveys a ‘calming signal’ to the dog. It portrays a picture of a being who is not going to try to chase him, grab him or hurt him.If you look calm, the dog will be calm.Other calming signals include approaching by walking in an arc (the way friendly dogs greet each other), sitting or squatting, licking your lips, yawning. Basically you are almost completely ignoring the dog.This sets him at ease. You’re telling him, ‘I mean you no harm’.
• The child should be instructed not to pat the dog on the top of the head (most dogs actually hate this). Children usually reach out and then pull back when the dog moves to inspect the hand. This is the fastest way to encourage a dog to nip at hands. Try to get the child to scratch the dog under the chin.
• The child can hold out their hand for the dog to smell, but the hand must be held close to their own bodies, not reaching towards the dog. It does not matter if the hand is turned palm down reaching for the dog – it is still ‘invading’ the dog’s personal space. Allow the dog to make the choice of coming closer to the child to smell their hand.

B. Consider these things before allowing your child to interact with a strange dog

• Are there other dogs in the area?
• Is it a crowded noisy environment?
• Are you confident that this person would tell you if their furry baby has a bite history?
• Is the dog listening to the handler?
• Is the dog interested in interacting?
• Is it hot?
• Is the dog tired?
• Are there many children wanting to pet the dog at the same time?
• Is your child wound up or excited?
• Does your child have food on his hands?
• Is the dog showing fear? (Examples of fear include: tucking tail, turning its head away, licking lips, cowering, growling, shaking, hiding behind handler and possibly yawning.) Any of these alone or combined may indicate that the dog is experiencing stress.
• Consider the dog’s total posture and the environment when making a decision of whether to allow interaction with the dog.

C. Teach children what to do if a strange (or aggressive) dog approaches them.

• Cheryl Carlson (She is a certified Campagne decoy (a French sport consisting of bite-work, agility, obedience and tracking) and is certified by the National Association Of Protection Dogs. www.chercarkennels.com) suggests that you never try to use intimidation to ‘chase away’ an aggressive dog, unless you are sure that the dog is very fearful. A fearful dog will respect and avoid a ’stronger being’, while they may attempt to bite someone who runs away.
• First choice defense would be to activate the calming signals, while slowly backing off, sideways.
• Cheryl also says that the flesh on the outsides of our bodies (hips, outer thighs, outer calves, upper side of arms) is tougher than the inner sides of those body parts, and if you’re going to get bitten those would hurt the least.
• As for a small child, Cheryl recommends that the child place the hands over the face, with the forearms protecting the throat. She tells little kids that if they see a ‘big, mean dog’ he wants to play hide and seek, so stand still, cover your eyes, and count to 50. This places bone in front of the child’s face and throat.Lying down on the ground is not a good defense against an aggressive dog, but if the child should happen to fall down, or get knocked down, they should remain still, curled up and protect face and neck with hands and arms, and not scream.
• NEVER, NEVER RUN! This will stimulate a dog to chase and activate the attack-motor pattern.
• If you’re an adult, and you are faced with an all-out attack from an unfriendly dog, and all of the other stuff didn’t work, what do you do? Cheryl says to stand up straight (and sideways), and in your best, most authoritative, primal yell, blast the word ‘NO!!!!!’ from your very bowels, just as the dog gets within striking distance.This may take the dog off guard, as most dogs have been admonished with this word before (unfortunately).

D. The signals a dog gives to indicate that he feels uncomfortable / threatened by a child.

There are usually many warning signs before a bite occurs, but these can be very subtle and build up over time and may be missed if you are not aware of them. A dog may appear to tolerate being repeatedly rough handled by a child and one day bites, much to the ’surprise’ of everyone. Signs that you should take very seriously that indicate that the dog is saying: ‘I have been very patient with this child, but I am nearing the end of my patience’, include:

• The dog gets up and moves away from the child.
• The dog turns his head away from the child.
• The dog looks at you with a pleading expression / furrowed brow.
• You can see the ‘whites’ of the dog’s eyes, in a half moon shape.
• The dog yawns while the child approaches or is interacting with him.
• The dog licks his nose while the child approaches or is interacting with him.
• The dog suddenly starts scratching or licking himself.
• The dog pulls his ears back or lowers his head.

POSSIBLE REASONS WHY A DOG MAY BITE A CHILD

• The dog is protecting a possession/toy, food or water dish or puppies.
• The dog is protecting a resting place.
• The dog is protecting its owner or the owner’s property.
• The child has done something the dog considers to be threatening (e.g., hugging the dog, moving into the dog’s space, leaning or stepping over the dog).
• The dog is old and grumpy and having a bad day and has no patience for the actions of a child.
• The dog is injured/ill and therefore have less tolerance to things/situations that would normally not bother him.
• The child has hurt or startled the dog by stepping on him, poking it or pulling its fur, tail or ears.
• The dog has not learned bite inhibition and bites hard by accident when the child offers food or a toy to the dog.
• The child and dog are engaging in rough play and the dog gets overly excited.
• The dog views the child as a prey item because the child is running and/or screaming / or has fallen down near the dog or riding a bicycle or otherwise moving fast past the dog.

STATISTICS

The following dog bite statistics are only from injuries presented at the Red Cross Children’s Hospital for on site treatments during 1997-98: (www.childsafe.org.za) I could not find any other statistics for South-Africa.

• Children under 1 year = 3 bites
• Between 1 and 4 years = 21 bites
• Between 5 and 9 years = 45 bites
• Children over 10 years = 29 bites
• That is 98 dog bites to children in one year.

Statistics from the USA: (www.dogbitelaw.com)

• The majority of dog attacks (61%) happen at home or in a familiar place.
• The vast majority of biting dogs (77%) belong to the victim’s family or a friend.
• 77% of injuries to children under 10 years old are facial.
• When a child less than 4 years old is the victim, the family dog was the attacker half the time (47%), and the attack almost always happened in the family home (90%).
• The median age of patients bitten was 15 years, with children, especially boys aged 5 to 9 years, having the highest incidence rate.
• The chances that the victim of a fatal dog attack will be a burglar are one in 177; the odds that it will be a child are 7 out of 10.
• In the US from 1979 to 1996, 304 people in the US died from dog attacks.
• The average number of deaths per year was 17. Most of the deceased were children. (‘Dog-Bite-Related Fatalities — United States, 1995-1996,’ MMWR 46(21):463-467, 1997.)
• For every fatal dog bite in the United States, there are 230,000 bites that are not treated by a physician.

I have seen many dog bites to children that could have been prevented if the owner or child were made aware of a few simple dog-bite-prevention-tips. There is absolutely no guarantee that your Labrador or loving lap-dog Bull Terrier will never bite your child or another child, but you can significantly reduce the risk. Do not assume that your dog always wants to interact with everybody they meet. Learn to observe his body language – that will clearly show you if he is feeling comfortable or not. Even if you do socialize your dog and do preventative measures, always keep in mind that your dog is still a dog and to treat him with respect accordingly.

Copyright Claire Grobbelaar

]]> http://www.dogsense.co.za/2009/07/children-and-dogs/feed/ 0 http://www.dogsense.co.za/2009/07/the-issue-with-choke-chains/ http://www.dogsense.co.za/2009/07/the-issue-with-choke-chains/#comments Mon, 20 Jul 2009 12:15:04 +0000 Claire http://allchorn.com/clients/dogsense/2009/07/the-issue-with-choke-chains/ For those of you who know me or have been to my training know how passionate I am about not using choke/check chains (or prong or e-collars). People often ask my why – even if they do not intent to use it in a forceful manner. Even if not used as a corrective training tool, your dog may still lunge towards another dog/cat/human or other trigger and in the process physically hurt himself. You might also be unaware that you unintentionally give jerks on the choke chain. Long term (be it unintentional) jerking on the choke chain will cause physical damage. Alternatives are a normal nylon or leather collars. If you are nervous of your dog slipping out of a normal flat collar then you can buy a semi-slip collar, harness or Gentle Leader(TM)

The following is an article written by companion animal behaviour therapist Peter Neville DHc, BSc (Hons), UK, whom I also had the pleasure in meeting in 2003 during his visit to Cape Town.

In the 40 years of veterinary practice (including 22 as veterinary advisor to a police dog section) my veterinary surgeon partner in the Centre of Applied Ethology, Robin Walker MRCVS, reports having seen ‘numerous severely sprained necks, cases of fainting, transient foreleg paresis and hind leg ataxia after robust use of the check chain’.

The practice of slamming the dog sideways with a jerk that brought the foreparts clear of the ground and 2-3 feet towards the handler, became popular in the 1970’s and resulted in a painful condition known as ‘Woodhouse neck’ (see below) in his practice. He reports that some of these cases exhibited misalignment of cervical vertebrae on radiographs and that his ophthalmology colleagues had decided views on the relation between compression of the neck caused by the use choke chains, intra-ocular pressure disturbances and damage to the cervical sympathetic nerve chain resulting in Horner’s syndrome. He also reports having personally seen a case of ‘swollen eyes with petechial scleral haemorrhage and a number of temporarily voiceless dogs caused by the use of choke chains in the training of dogs’.

On page 29 of her book, ‘Handling a Problem Dog’, published in 1992, the famous and now late UK dog trainer Barbara Woodhouse tells us that the cure for vicious behaviour in a dog is to ‘return violence with violence’. She continues… [Insert: due to the explicit explanation of her violent method I have decided to delete this paragraph from the article. CG] Attitudes, understanding, methods and ethics have come a long way in the worldwide field of dog training and behaviour therapy since these awful words were published.

From the Veterinary Hospital of the University of Pennsylvania, we learn that it is never appropriate to recommend to an owner to hang a dog from a choke collar to subdue aggression. If the owner cannot back the dog down, and this may take a fight to the death, they are at risk of being injured. Furthermore, the dog is at risk of injured ocular vessels, tracheal and oesophageal damage, and recurrent laryngeal nerve paralysis. ‘In the few cases of the latter, due to hanging by a choker, seen at VHUP, all have died despite therapy that included a respirator’.

Using punishment to train dogs, horses or children works in a number of cases to the satisfaction solely of drill sergeants, traditional schoolmasters and horse breakers, and of dog chokers and jerkers, and those intent on methodically and sadistically abusing dogs to raise their own impoverished egos under the guise of ‘training’. It fails disastrously when it creates anxious casualties or violently defiant rebels.

It is no longer acceptable to hide behind the concept that to train a dog one has to be ‘cruel to be kind’. Such ‘trainers’ and teachers are being increasingly made to consider whether they are simply being ‘cruel to be cruel’ in a more enlightened world.

The question is very simple. When a punishment fails, what do you do next? Do you relentlessly increase the punishment, or try alternative methods?

It is the ambition of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, the Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors and COAPE in the UK and of many other groups interested in the welfare of children, as well as pets, to persuade us to try the alternative methods first.

Robin Walker is also one of a growing majority of veterinarians around the world who firmly believe that the veterinary profession should also embrace these issues as part of a general concern with animal welfare.

]]> http://www.dogsense.co.za/2009/07/the-issue-with-choke-chains/feed/ 0 http://www.dogsense.co.za/2009/07/the-benefits-of-touching-your-dog/ http://www.dogsense.co.za/2009/07/the-benefits-of-touching-your-dog/#comments Mon, 20 Jul 2009 12:14:24 +0000 Claire http://allchorn.com/clients/dogsense/2009/07/the-benefits-of-touching-your-dog/ Touching and petting your puppy or older dog provides a very valuable reward for them. Studies conducted (by Tuber) in 1986 have found that dogs that respond to petting as a reward exhibit cardiac deceleration while being petted. Close social interaction between people and dogs results in a cascade of neurobiological events that facilitate enhanced attachment and comfort. These types of interactions produces an elevation in circulating neuropeptides (endorphin, oxytocin and prolactin) and other neurochemicals that mediates pleasure, affiliative emotions and social attachment. Oxytocin actively mediates social bonding and exerts a pronounced cardiovascular change and has an anti-stress effect, while exerting a potent decreasing effect over irritability (Lund et el. 2002) and aggression ‘reducing all forms of aggression that have been studied’ (Panksepp, 1998).

Ttouch – another form of tactile stimulation – helps to stimulate the release of dopamine, which is associated with bonding, attachment, motivation and focused thinking and serotonin, which is associated with a positive emotional state and feeling content. A reduction in these neurotransmitters can lead to impulsivity, aggression, irritability, anxiety, difficulty learning and a diminished positive feeling.

Hennessy and colleagues (1998) have reported that the way in which petting is done is also very important. Long, firm, slow and continuous strokes (such as the Noah’s March touch from Ttouch) produces the best stress-reducing and calming down effects, whereas quick and light touches increases arousal, stimulation or even irritation. In 1994 Gantt observed that slow firm petting exerted a potent inhibitory effect over conditioned anxiety in dogs.

Teaching puppies (or adult dogs) to relax, by means of petting and massage, is just as important as any other training activities. Before coming into its new home the average puppy is exposed to a tremendous amount of physical interaction, excitement and playful competitiveness with their littermates. These puppies are now accustomed to a high level of social stimulation that is now no longer available in their new home, thereby triggering unwelcome attention-seeking behaviours towards to the humans (and resident canines) in the household. Owners are sometimes frustrated by the new puppy’s incessant search for stimulation and interaction and this could, therefore, lead to improper disciplinary practices or excessive confinement of the puppy.

Puppies that exhibit such competitive and stimulation seeking behaviours should be exposed to graduated relaxation exercise e.g. slow petting, massage or Ttouch to reduce agitation and decrease competitive tension, instead of using force or domination tactics.

Early tactile stimulation in the form of massage, gentle-firm touching or Ttouch exerts a profound and long-lasting influence on activity levels, learning and problem solving abilities, confidence and emotional reactivity. Failure to obtain the correct early tactile stimulation may represent a significant source of stress for newly adopted puppies and can induce a variety of compensatory behaviours such as hyperactivity, excessive contact seeking and proximity seeking behaviours, over-excitability and increase aggressiveness associated with frustration and irritability (Slabbert and Rasa 1993).

Together with sufficient environmental enrichment, exercise, play, daily positive training activities and tactile stimulation, which includes gentle restraining efforts, can help modulate a puppy’s social competitive and stimulation needs. During these gentle manual restraint, (as some of you might have practiced in my puppy courses) the puppy is exposed to mild limit-setting actions. An example of that is to gently contain the puppy while stroking him; when he wriggles, mouths or tries to get away (Posture communicates behavioural intention and reflects underlying emotional and motivation states.) is to simply carry on with the gentle stroking and using vocal reassurance until the puppy calms down and is then released. The relaxation period is then extended over time before he is released. The puppy then gradually learns to submit to handling as a source of increased comfort and safety rather than evoking competitive reactivity and resistance. The restraint in this case is gentle, consistent and clear but not overtly intimidating or threatening. In the case of puppies (or dogs) becoming aggressive, professional help should be sought.

The objective of such exercises is to help the puppy accept a level of control with minimum reactively, thereby improving its willingness to submit and ultimately achieving enhanced feelings of affection, comfort, safety with his owner and to progressively become more relaxed and compliant. Massage induced relaxation or any other tactile method such as Ttouch makes tasks like grooming, nail clipping, giving medication, having sutures removed, giving ear / eye drops, examining feet, tail, ears, teeth less stressful for the puppy or (and owner!).

Temple Grandin (author of ‘Animals in Translation’) who is autistic, has found that deep touch pressure (e.g. massage or firm continuous touches) alleviates the touch aversion exhibited by many autistic persons. In addition to becoming less aggressive and tense, she reported becoming more receptive of human touch and gentler in her own touching contacts with other people and her pet. The Ttouch Body Wrap placed on dogs has a similar effect. This body wrap exerts a gentle continuous pressure that helps to calm the dog down.

All though not ‘doggy’ related, but very interesting, Field (1995) discovered that premature babies given tactile stimulation consisting of light stroking failed to gain weight, whereas babies who received tactile stimulation in the form of gentle firm strokes did gain weight.andnbsp; In addition Field and his colleagues (1996) also discovered that massage therapy helped to alleviate stress related physiological and behavioural symptoms exhibited by babies born to depressed mothers. Over a 6 week period with regular sessions it significantly increased serotonin levels. This increased the contact responsiveness and sociability in the infants.

Massage, Ttouch or whichever tactile stimulation you choose to use is far more beneficial than just a feel good activity to do with your dog or puppy. Make time to touch your dog mindfully every day. Ten minutes (or hopefully more!) of focused, mindful and intentional petting/stroking is far more beneficial than a casual touch here and there throughout the day.

References:
Lindsay, Steven – Applied Dog Behaviour , Training Vol. 3
Grandin, Temple – Animals in Translation, Using the mysteries of Autism to Decode Animal Behaviour
Cascade, Kathy. Article – The sensory side of Ttouch

Copyright Claire Grobbelaar

]]> http://www.dogsense.co.za/2009/07/the-benefits-of-touching-your-dog/feed/ 0 http://www.dogsense.co.za/2009/07/housetraining-a-puppy-or-dog/ http://www.dogsense.co.za/2009/07/housetraining-a-puppy-or-dog/#comments Mon, 20 Jul 2009 12:13:46 +0000 Claire http://allchorn.com/clients/dogsense/2009/07/housetraining-a-puppy-or-dog/ Correct and positive house training methods are very important in a puppy critical developmental period (3-16 weeks of age) as many behaviour problems in adolescent and adult dogs can be traced back to improper housetraining techniques due to non-contingent punishment (punishment after the act) and inconsistency on the owner’s behalf.

House-soiling (due to incomplete and improper training) is the leading cause given by dog owners for relinquishing their dogs to the uncertain fate of a shelter (Salman et al., 2000)

Effective house-training depends on just a few things, namely

1) diligent supervision,
2) scheduled feeding (what goes in on time goes out on time),
3) constructive (positive conditioned) confinement and
4) adequate scheduled opportunities to eliminate outdoors (to create a reinforcement opportunity).

The two main goals of house training are to:

1) Prevent the occurrence of eliminating in the house and
2) To encourage and reinforce puppies for eliminating outdoors.

Prevention and training

Constructive confinement can include having the puppy in a doggy crate (to which the dog has been positively conditioned to), a puppy pen or making your own confinement are such as a kitchen where the entrance is closed with a board or baby gate. Confinement is a very useful in preventing house-soiling, but excessive confinement may inadvertently produce significant adverse side effects. It should only be used as a training tool and not as a punisher.

A confinement area consists of an area large enough for sleeping, eating and playing and must be close to the social happenings in the house. Over reliance on confinement may also interfere with effective house training by preventing a puppy from learning to generalize its training to the whole house. To increase generalization of proper housetraining the puppy should only have supervised access when exposed to other areas of the house to prevent accidents from happening. This can be done by walking the puppy around the house while on leash. Most accidents can be prevented if puppies are under careful supervision. Until the puppy is housetrained, do not let him wander around the house on his own.

When on lead or in the confinement area observe the puppy for telltale signs in body language that have occurred in the past just prior to elimination. Signs can include moving towards an area where they have eliminated in the past, sniffing, circling, lowering of the hind quarters or whining when in crate or on leash.

There are times when puppies are most likely to eliminate.

Use these opportunities to reward the behaviour in the correct location.

They include:

* Immediately after waking up in the mornings and after napping in the middle of the day
* Just after eating and drinking and again 20-30 minutes later
* After bouts of play with either the humans or canine companions or after playing with a toy by himself
* After any form of excitement i.e. visitors arriving or your homecoming
* After a significant period without eliminating (every 45-60 minutes, then gradually increase the duration between taking him out)
* Sniffing, circling behaviour
* At night, (at least twice) before bed time

When it is time to take the puppy outside:

* Take him to the correct spot
* with a treat hidden in your pocket.
* Wait for your puppy to urinate, when he is busy urinating say i.e. ‘do toilet’ or ‘wee-wee’ so that
* he starts to associates the behaviour with the word/cue. This is done so that one day the dog can be given a cue to eliminate when off property or when the weather is unpleasant you do not have to go outside with your dog, you merely stand at the door and say ‘do toilet’ and your dog will eliminate outside on his own.
* Immediately after the puppy has finished you give the treat and praise him.
* Stay outside with the puppy for a few minutes before going back inside, otherwise the puppy can start to associate eliminating with going back inside. For some puppies it is very reinforcing to be outside with their owners, so they postpone urinating to prevent going back inside so soon. This then leads to the puppy eliminating soon after going back inside, as the owner then thinks after a while of being outside that the puppy has no need to eliminate, but in actual fact the puppy did need to go.
* If you have taken the puppy outside on a schedule time and he does not eliminate after 5 minutes (no longer, as most puppies will want to eliminate immediately), take him back to his confinement area and try again 15-20 minutes later or supervise him, so that you can observe his behaviour to indicate if he needs to eliminate before that time.

Caught in the act

If you see your puppy is busy or preparing to eliminate in doors, interrupt the behaviour. For most puppies an abrupt vocal shout combined with a clap of hands or stomp on the floor is adequate to get the impression across. The intensity of the interrupter should depend on the puppy’s temperament. If you use to much the puppy could perceive it as a punishment, if you use to little it could have no effect. Whatever method is used, it is critical that the puppy be caught in the act and then immediately rushed outdoors to finish. When moving outdoors, your voice and manner should shift to a jolly and encouraging tone, thereby causing the puppy to relax and finish the behaviour outside. Remember to reward him when he is finished.

Using physical or verbal punishment can cause a puppy significant discomfort or fear of you, the owner and could cause it to overly generalize the negative event, thereby possibly reducing the puppy’s willingness to eliminate outdoors in the owners presence as the aversive event could be paired with the presence of the owner. This leads to the puppy learning not to do the behaviour in front of you, but just in another room when you are not present.

Smacking a dog with a newspaper whilst showing him the elimination, squirting him with water or rubbing his nose in it serves no purpose. Dogs do not feel the same as humans about elimination. All that this teaches them is that you are ‘unsafe’ and ‘unpredictable’ as the punishment is not associated with the unwanted act, but rather with ‘that the presence of elimination and owner equals a negative consequence’.

During the day multiple outing should be scheduled around feeding times. Between feeding times the puppy should be supervised thereby preventing the puppy from making accidents. The average maximum length of time a puppy should be expected to hold between daytime outings is calculated by dividing its age in weeks by 3. If the puppy is 12 weeks old, he could be expected to hold for a maximum of 4 hours. Even if some puppies can hold on for longer it may be stressful and unhealthy for them to do so.

Initially when acquiring the puppy he should be taken out every 45-60 minutes to establish the desired behaviour and then gradually lengthen the time between outings to approximate the average age-appropriate limit. This will gradually teach them to hold in the elimination in response to internal elimination signals.

If more than one person in the household is responsible for house training the puppy, a chart should be drawn up to provide a useful source of objective feedback concerning a puppy’s progress. If a puppy is having several accidents a day, it is probably not the puppy’s ability that needs to be improved, but the humans in the household’s supervisory efforts that needs to be increased.

At night

It is advisable that the puppy sleep with the owner in the bedroom, either in their crate, puppy pen, in a big cardboard box or in an en-suite bathroom that is closed of with a baby gate or board. Before the puppy is confined for the night, it should be taken out two to three times to give him sufficient opportunity to evacuate the bladder and bowels fully. If the puppy whines during the night it often signifies that the puppy is distressed by a need to eliminate. It is important that you respond to this and take him outside (with his treat).
The more opportunity you get to reinforce him for the behaviour in the correct location, the quicker he will learn to do it outside. If he soils inside, you have missed a training opportunity and it will add some duration in your house training.

In the mornings

Most young puppies require at least three or four closely spaced opportunities outdoors to evacuate the bowels and bladder fully. They include:

1) Immediately after waking up
2) Immediately after breakfast
3) 20-30 minutes after breakfast
4) And again in association with outdoor play.

Paper Training

Training a puppy to eliminate on paper should be restricted to times when the puppy is in a confinement area and you are not at home for long periods during the day. At times that you are at home the paper should be removed and the above mention training methods should be used. A common adult elimination problem stemming from continuous paper training is the tendency of some dogs thus trained to refuse to eliminate while on walks or when release outdoors, but instead waiting until they get back inside to eliminate, paper or no paper. These dogs are just performing in a manner consistent with the training that they received during their imprinting period.

Cleaning up

Cleaning a soiled area should be thorough to reduce unpleasant odors and potential damage to carpets. The first step is to extract as much urine as possible by using paper towels by gently soaking up as much as possible. The remaining urine in the carpet should be diluted with some water and then sponged up. Finally a solution of warm water and baking soda is poured onto the soiled area. The solution (one quarter teaspoon baking soda to one quater cup of warm water) is left to soak into the carpet for a minute or two and then thoroughly sponged out and allowed to dry overnight. The dry carpet can be brushed gently and vacuumed, leaving it clean and odor free. (Vinegar can be hazardous on fine rugs and cleaning agents that contain ammonia can attract a dog, especially and adult dog to go back to the same area to eliminate.) Once the area is cleaned the puppy can be fed treats, massaged or played with over the spot. The goal with such training is to establish a number of associations with the area that are incompatible with the urge to eliminate in that area.

Other Problems

The vast majority of puppies learn to eliminate outdoors on schedule with little difficulty, however the following could cause problems.

Fear – Nervous or scared of a new environment. Puppies should be provided with activities that promote feelings of comfort, security and relaxation when outdoors. ‘Scary’ things like shadows, leaves rustling or a big dog barking next door should be paired with fun and positive stuff i.e. treats, play or massage.

Distractions – Overly active and inquisitive puppies may be easily distracted by the novelty and excitement of being outdoors. Such puppies should be consistently taken to a familiar spot where he has already explored and habituated to and only allowed to explore after elimination. This can be achieved by taking the puppy outdoors on a leash.

Weather or surface aversion – Puppies should be provided with a surface area that is acceptable to them or taken to spots that are protected from the weather. Thereafter they should be gradually exposed to varying surfaces and weather changes to improve their willingness to eliminate. Puppies like these should be allowed to choose its spots, thereby facilitating more willingness to eliminate in a timely manner. Once a cue is added then the puppy can be taken to areas where you would like them to eliminate.

Change in environment – some dogs can have a relapse in housetraining after an extended period of kenneling, moving to a new house or adopting a shelter dog. Dogs do not automatically generalize training to another context/environment. If this happens, just follow the steps above as if the dog is a 8 week old puppy.

Medical causes – consult your veterinarian.

Copyright Claire Grobbelaar

]]> http://www.dogsense.co.za/2009/07/housetraining-a-puppy-or-dog/feed/ 0 http://www.dogsense.co.za/2009/07/taking-the-stress-out-of-toe-nail-trimming/ http://www.dogsense.co.za/2009/07/taking-the-stress-out-of-toe-nail-trimming/#comments Mon, 20 Jul 2009 12:12:55 +0000 Claire http://allchorn.com/clients/dogsense/2009/07/taking-the-stress-out-of-toe-nail-trimming/ By by TTEAM and TTouch Instructor Debby Potts, TTEAM Connections Newsletter April-June, 2003 Pp. 24-25

In most of my workshops I ask how many people have trouble cutting their dogs’ toenails. Usually a lot of hands go up. It can be something that people dread, both because of how many dogs hate having their toenails cut, and how afraid people are of hurting their dogs. It becomes something to do quickly, just to get it over with, often making the next time that much more difficult.

TTouch can be a great help in making cutting toenails easier and safer for both cats and dogs. I’m going to describe what I recommend for dogs, the same process would apply to cats. In this demo or discussion, I am not only talking about toenails, I am also describing the way we chunk things down and listen to the animals any time we are working with something that is difficult for them.

The first question is — where can you start? If you can’t easily handle your dog’s feet, the issue is not just toenails; it is trust and comfort with the feet. You may have to start with Python Lifts on the shoulder, and gradually work toward the feet. Abalone or Lying Leopard TTouches with the Python Lift (insert: see bottom of article how to do these touches) will bring more awareness to the area as well as bring a release of tension, It may be necessary to start with the back of your hand, with a wand, or with something covering your hand like a sheepskin mitt or a sock. The important thing is to listen to your dog. Let him know he has influence over what you are doing. It is surprising how quickly trust is built if you change something when your dog is concerned. Your dog may act like his feet are ticklish. Ticklishness is the result of tension. When the tension is gone, he won’t feel ticklish any more. You might find that having your dog wear a t-shirt or body wrap (insert: see body wrap article) helps his focus and balance.

It is important to be breathing, balanced and relaxed while you are working with your dog. Remember to hold the foot softly and if your dog pulls his foot back, go with the movement rather than getting involved in a tug of war. Struggling only makes things worse. If you try to hold the foot still, not only are you creating resistance to your dog having his foot back, you will also find that you are squeezing his paw. It can be frightening or painful. I always say that it takes two to fight, and if you don’t participate, there is no battle.

When you can do TTouches all over your dog’s feet, including between the pads, it is time to start working with the nails. This process could be one session, or it could be several. Shorter, more frequent sessions will often help you progress more quickly. If you hear yourself say, Wow, this is going really well,andnbsp;check to see if this is a good stopping point. If your dog’s expectation is that this is going to be difficult, it will be a pleasant surprise if you stop while things are easy. If you are really eager to get this done, it will take longer, if you can see that the process is more important than the result and let go of the outcome, you may be surprised at how quickly you have a happy dog with short toenails.

Giving your dog different experiences with having his toenails manipulated can be helpful. You might do TTouches on them or gently move them in circles. Using your fingernail to scrape the end of your dog’s nail creates sound and vibration that can be a helpful approximation of actual cutting.

When you bring the clippers out, some dogs will change their minds about having their feet handled. I have a theory that some dogs believe that their wonderful, loving human companions have something weird happen to them when they get near nail trimmers. Normal loving people suddenly want to invite a couple of friends over to sit on the dog and do scary things with their feet. I call it Berserk Human Nail Trimmer Syndrome. It is important that your dog know you don’t suffer from this malady and that the trust you have built so far still holds true with trimmers in your hand. You may need to start with just having them nearby while you repeat some of the above steps. Offering food from your hand with the clippers can help. Sometimes I have the clippers in my hand and do TTouches with the back of my hand, gradually working to do TTouches with the clippers themselves. If you are using a grinder, it will also be necessary to help your dog feel safe with the noise and vibration.

Before you cut the first nail, I suggest you have a dress rehearsal. Gently hold the paw, remembering to keep your arm soft so that if the dog moves you can follow the movement. Be sure you are breathing and relaxed with a positive picture of what you want. Go through the motions of cutting the nail, but have the clippers just off the end of the nail so you’re not actually cutting yet. This way the dog can hear the sound and see what it will be like when you do cut the nail. It is also a time for you to check your hands to be sure that as you squeeze the cutters, your other hand isn’t squeezing the paw too. It is easy for your hands to mirror each other if you aren’t aware of what you are doing. You can differentiate your hands just by bringing your attention to what you are doing.

If that goes well, you are ready to actually cut the nail. Work in an area and in a body position that is comfortable for your dog. Some dogs are more comfortable with the foot taken back like you might pick up a horse’s foot than bringing it forward, especially if they have pain in their body or have poor balance. Take off a tiny sliver at first. Taking off small pieces if you are concerned about hurting your dog will make it safer. If you exhale as you are cutting, it will soften your hands and help your dog relax. Cutting the nails after a bath or a walk in wet grass will make the nails softer and easier to cut. Dirty nails dull the blades of your cutter so make sure the feet are mud free. With a grinder, it is better to grind when the nails are dry. Also, a nylon stocking over the foot with the nails protruding will help prevent long hair from being caught in the tool.

Quietly reinforce your dog as you work. I like to use frequent treats if the dog isn’t over-excited about the food. Being too excited makes it hard to calm the dog down to do more nails. The first time you do this, again stop before it is too hard for your dog to concentrate and be patient.

If you cut enough toenails, it is likely that you will eventually quick one.andnbsp;Don’t panic. If you are calm (while you apologize) the dog is less likely to overreact. It might be a good time for extra treats; a few TTouches and deciding if this is a good break time.

This process isn’t just about toenails. It’s about listening to your dog and working through something difficult together in a way that builds trust and partnership. Toenail trimming is a wonderful opportunity to use TTouch to enhance your relationship with your dog.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

How to do the Lying Leopard Ttouch:

1. Start by holding up both hands in a slightly cupped position together.

2. Let the heel of your palms touch and the pads of all your fingers touch. (see picture)

3. Where your 4 fingers are touching is what you will use to make the Lying Leopard circle.

4. Now visualize the face of the clock.

5. We want to make a circle and a quarter ONLY, in a clockwise movement.

6. Now place one hand on the animal for support and balance and use the other hand to make the circle.

7. Rest your hand lightly on the animal, with your thumb a few centimetres from your fingers for support, and start your fingers at the 6 o’clock position, move around the clock by pulling the skin up in a clockwise motion until you’ve done one complete circle and a quarter, which will land you up at 9 o’clock. (Work against gravity andndash; so you will always first pull the skin up)

8. Remember to move the skin and not slide over it and always start your 6 o’clock from the ground upwards. It really feels different to end in upward motion rather than down!

9. Do ONLY ONE circle in a spot, and then move on to another.

10. Keep your fingers and knuckles soft and flexible. If there is tension in your hand or wrist, that tension will go directly into the animal.

11. Keep your pressure very light until you know how comfortable the animal is with the touch. Remember that youandrsquo;re activating the nervous system, so you donandrsquo;t need to work on the muscle.

12. Keep your hand as an extension on your arm to avoid getting into an awkward position

13. While you concentrate, do not forget to breathe!

14. Try doing connected circles down the body, keeping them small.

15. Afterwards do a long steady stroke to integrate the circles.

16. The slower the circle,andnbsp;the more relaxing it is for the dog

17. The faster you do the circle the more invigorating it is.

18. The more hand-surface you use, the more relaxing and comforting it will feel for your dog.

19. We mostly use a pressure number two. A three pressure is the amount of pressure you can apply on your closed eyelid without hurting your eye. A two pressure is just a little less.

The Abalone Ttouch

Place your whole flat hand on the dogs body and your whole hand moves the skin in a circle and a quarter movement, also in a clockwise direction, starting against gravity and thus pushing the skin up, then pulling it down and then ending in the 9 o clock position. All the pointers above for the Lying Leopard above also applies to the Abalone Ttouch.

It is important to remember to only use as much pressure to be able to move the skin over the muscle. The slower the circular movement, the more calming it is. I usually count one-thousand and one, one thousand and two, to indicate my speed.

Phyton lifts

This touch can be done on the dog’s neck, shoulders, back, abdomen and down the legs. It is excellent for improving mobility, relaxation, balance and gait.

When doing this touch on the legs to help with Nail Trimming issues, stand next to your dog. Place your whole hand/s around the dog’s leg. For small dogs you can just use your fingers.

Start at the shoulder and move down the leg towards the toes.

Lift the skin up gently and hold for 2 seconds then gently guide skin back into its original position. If you slide the skin upwards for 4 seconds you, you hold for 2 seconds and then guide the skin back in double the time it took you to lift the skin, thus your down ward motion is 8 seconds. If you lift for 2 seconds, you release down wards for 4 seconds, if you lifted 3 seconds you release for 6 seconds etc. Take care to do a slow and gentle movement, if it is to abrupt, the dog will try to move away. The slow release is important to release any tension in the dog.

One finished with a touch, slide down a few centimeters and do another Python Ttouch until you reach the paws.

For dogs with balance issues i.e. with arthritis or HD, do it whilst the dog standing or lying down.

Once finished working a leg, end it with a long, gentle but firm stroke from the shoulders down towards the toes.

Most importantly when working on the front left you also need to work on the front right leg of the dog, or you could leave the dog feeling unbalanced, the same goes for the hind legs.

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